What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Dimensions. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. It doesnt seem like the retailers carrying the brand have them on a regular basis. Hand Stitch sign-off detail is applied to the upper only where necessary to offer strength. Sounds so random. last year (shown below). It gets compliments often. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. Thank you in advance. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw, The colour is particularly appealing too. He will know how much cloth he uses for his shirts. Any thoughts? I am not sure if there is much variance in the quality of cordovan offered by Horween (as there is, for instance, with European tanneries). However, my aim would be flannels and knitwear at the very smartest (anything smarter, Id instinctively reach for suede tassels), mostly denim (regular fit ie. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. Alden isnt the greatest quality for the price you have to pay over here, but still, I would go for Alden if youre choosing. They were nice and Id always wanted a pair but like most things, the wanting was better than the having. this is all part of the unique finish when using natural materials and the. Is this your recommended maintenance for all shoes, or should calf leather sit in trees overnight before shining? $200.00 Very limited quantities available. It has bright luster, non-creasing grain character, great leather smell and ability to develop and keep these characteristics over time. I recently bought a pair of Alden Jumper boots (Barrie last, below) and they were comfortable from day one. Most farmers have much greater respect for animals than non-farmers. Do you send them back to Aldens factory in the US or do you use a local service? Our Hand Stitch Collection is the pinnacle of luxury, handmade sneakers. If its something smarter, to wear with tailoring mostly, you might want it as fitted as a regular dress shirt. My two pairs of Cordovan Derbies are now 20 years old and they still have more than enough fat in them. Interesting albeit a little farfetched that you need deer bone for this because it is oily thank you for pointing me towards this article I will give it a try! But then that might also mean your heel slips more. And would they do so just as well as brown suede? Note: All Meermin Shoes are UK Sized. I find it more versatile and its a style I feel is more likely to last longer (I do now and again wonder whether tassels will become a bit fashiony, though I havent felt like that yet). Id definitely go for the Alden tassel loafer, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have. $ 123.99 USD. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Welcome to cordovan;-) Ive had the same Aldens as you for at least 15 years. Yes, Van is wider so theres a lot more room in there, though I didnt find going a half size down worked for me that made the loafer too short on the toes. Yes, always with a shirt or a long sleeve t-shirt underneath. Could I ask how you chose your size for the Aberdeen lasts?   Mongolia   |   English (US)   |   $ (USD), remembering account, browser, and regional preferences, remembering privacy and security settings, personalized search, content, and recommendations, helping sellers understand their audience, showing relevant, targeted ads on and off Etsy. More unusual shades among the regulars from left to right (excluding the last Chromexcel specimen): Dark Cognac. Please do let me know what are your thoughts on the last and style of this particular boot and how I intend to style it with the pair of jeans I own mentioned here. Description This rich dark cognac strap is the go to strap for wearing with tool watches such as submariners and speedmasters, but also an excellent choice for gold cases especially dress watches such as an iconic reverso. Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan Full Horween Shell Cordovan corner zip construction with two interior partitions. That last is only more comfortable on most people because it is larger and so more forgiving. I was hoping to get the benefit of your advise. Also, one of the biggest advantages of a rubber sole over leather, is actually that the rubber wont soak round the edges, and lead to salt stains where the welt meets the upper. Hong Kong,Hong Kong Alden rare whiskey shell cordovan long wing blucher. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. No I think youre right Paul, there is only a very small difference there and it will look fine. Made with derby construction and open-faced lacing, the upper mirrors the look, feel and finish of high-quality dress shoes. I suspect not, but I am trying to ascertain whether I would be loosing alot by choosing cordovan rather than suede, or whether its best to stick with suede for this essential item. I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. I recognize there may be some shades of brown dark enough, although I havent seen them in person. The Harlestone sneaker is the original Hand Stitch style. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. For sale is a new and unworn pair of the discontinued Meermin Field Boot style, done in Horween Dark Cognac shell cordovan. Many thanks, Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. They do a lot of boots, Red Wings etc. Thank you & Happy Thanksgiving! Mine are still a good fit, though Im tempted to go a half size up sometime merely because I like the extra room in fit more generally, as discussed in the piece about Anatomica. What would be your thoughts about cordovan colour 8 wholecut? Simon Crompton You can change your preferences any time in your Privacy Settings. Turning off the personalized advertising setting wont stop you from seeing Etsy ads or impact Etsy's own personalization technologies, but it may make the ads you see less relevant or more repetitive. Quality Goodyear Welted footwear, made to last at a radical price. Youll see ad results based on factors like relevancy, and the amount sellers pay per click. That said, there is certainly a look with black loafers, which can be too easily dismissed if we just think of that as formal. Its pretty confusing as the size guides on the internet are sometimes inconsistent. Production of boots takes 4 to 6 weeks for completion plus 3 to 5 . This has raised an interesting question that I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades of cordovan produced by the same tannery? Click on an image to enlarge. Accommodates single folded cash and many cards. That is a great loafer and a versatile colour. Remember its already pretty oily. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. What is the right fit for it? The big appeal for me is its toughness and waterproof properties, as you note. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. Black Chromexcel Brass Boot Restock Pedag Tongue Pads. Drakes also has different permutations. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Youve written a few times about the versatility of brown suede chukka boots. Certainly true! But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. Mine are about 7 or 8 years old and have become better with age. And perhaps somewhere that wasnt used to that colour. P.A. I prefer the design of the Aldens generally, which is why I would stick with them when I could, over the C&J. Im not. However, I always wear shoes which pinch my toes as my outfit would look proportionally odd if I wore anything that fits my feet well; it would look like I am wearing chunky trainers. Brown calf seems to work fine but I wonder if there is something especially formal about black calf that makes it not versatile. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. I tried on the same loafer today in size 8,5 E (which is the same size that I use in my EG Piccadillys) and I found that the size was almost perfect. Simon, you mention your black cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for it when compared with color 8. Shell cordovan is a truly rare and unique material, and prices vary, though it hovers around $100 per square foot. And I prefer the Alden shade of the colour 8 cordovan too. I suppose the one generalization that fits, however, is on finish. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Thats what I thought too. Do you think these in Dark Cognac cordovan would work with something like grey flannels as the top end of the formality scale? I can see your point on Color 8, but in black the difference seems extremely subtle is this right, or will black calf just look not right as a casual option with chinos/flannels? Should be an easy ship across the pond. Colour Horween Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan Add to Cart $741.00 Description Horween Shell Cordovan upper Derby construction with French binding Traditional oak bark counter & stiffener Footbed cork filled by hand Sustainable Lactae Hevea sole Clicker's Notes - Material Made To Order - Delivery Times Tax Free Shopping - Non European Orders Shoe Care (10% off), Keep collections to yourself or inspire other shoppers! I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. Hi Simon, I just bought a pair of Alden Plain Toe Blucher in Color 8 when in New York. Alden is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not. It doesnt make much difference whether you brush shoes the same day or the next day. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. Ive seen some people in more casual cities pull off balmorals or derby boots like a Galway with quality denim, but Im a little young to pull off that kind of boot in general. Worldwide shipping included on all footwear orders. What do you think? Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. Many thanks in advance! Thanks Quentin. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. Did you order a dark No. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. Brushing will always help with calf too see video on that kind of care here, But its much more possible with cordovan. The Carmina styles often seem like a bit of a mismatch to me too smart a style (eg thin welt) for the leather. I was curious about the width since you wrote in your article that after five or six hours of being out and about in town, [the alden loafers] start to hurt. Thanks in advance. Im curious to see how their loafers for example, compare to those by aldens. Obviously I feel very comfortable on my toes if I wear that size but my heels slip as if Im wearing flip flops. Thank you. Yes, normal cream is fine. If unsure, please check with your local customs office before placing an order. They were one of the best pieces of footwear I have ever worn; always smart and shiny in the the Cherry Black that you describe. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. Hand Edge Burnished. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. To get a smooth finish they have to roll glass rods over the shell to flatten out those fibers. Loafers seem popular, but I see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable. The Aberdeen last wasnt available at the time. 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. Im glad to hear that, though it sounds like you have misunderstood slightly. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. You also get a nice contrast between hard smoothness where there is reinforcement in the shoe - like the toe and heel - and a highly textured colour change where it bends. But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. Yes, I know what you mean. Horween Shell Cordovan - Dark Cognac $189.00 Colour Horween Shell Cordovan - Dark Cognac Add to Cart $189.00 Description Horween Shell Cordovan leather Vegetable tanned lining Crown Northampton branding Hand stitch detail Small batch Read more Shipping info Tax Free Shopping - Non European Orders You might also like Appreciated your recommendation and I will go for a brown leather/box calf loafer. A jean with a leg that slim looks silly with a normal Alden loafer on the bottom. Original Price USD 150.00 1. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. A touch more casual basically. Shell Cordovan. I always have to in US sizes. Shell cordovan leather comes from the fibrous membrane beneath the rump of the horsehide. Dear Simon! Coveted by leather heads around the world, Color #8 is often referred to simply as 'Cordovan'. , this colour 8 makes up about 65% of their cordovan production. And second, its tough and pretty much waterproof. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. It is intriguing to me. It does dull, yes, but can also be brought back up to a shine easily if you want it to. Sale Price 156.32 This was not easy, and required a trip to the Madison Avenue store in New York. Dark Cognac Shell Cordovan. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Then there is the leather sole. Shell cordovan undergoes a long, complicated tanning process which results in a rich lustre and strong water resistance. At that time I dont think any UK shoe manufacturers sold cordovan. I dont think you should try and match too closely Neil see post here. Shell cordovan is given a full vegetable tannage and is then retanned, a process that takes over 6 months, to create a leather that has an exceptionally soft and smooth feel, rich earth-tone colors, and a bright, glossy look. Sole. 94.55, 126.06 Thank you. Definitely my favorite shoes. What about a suit lower down the formality scale, say a mid Grey flannel? Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Alden (same as yours) or Carmina? It is characterized by its tight grain structure and smooth feel. The colour is, I think a brown/burgundy. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. For reference, I already have Belgravias in dark oak, black calf, dark brown suede and snuff suede. Thank you! () I finally ordered the PS watch cap in red, and the rapid despatch and sweetly worded confirmation message already have me convinced it was a great decision to do so. And its a shade I prefer - you can see the difference in my Vass pair above. Personally I dont like bit loafers though. Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. Theres no rule here just bear in mind that its a more casual material. Hi Simon, did you have to size up or down for the Alden Norwegian Blucher? READ!!!! Prioritising comfort/space. And even then, the shape might just not work that well for you. Thanks Quention. 3.5 2.5 0.25 Select. Any comments on these issues? Set where you live, what language you speak, and the currency you use. Alden long wing blucher Rare whiskey shell cordovan Full set with box and dust bag Size 8, fits senaker size US8.5-9 Made in USA Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. I have never checked them out in the flesh myself.https://aldenmadison.com/collection/indy-boot-color-8-shell-cordovan-40508h/, I like the Indy boot, but more as something casual to just go with jeans. Worth every short term pinch! These intricate, centuries-old construction details further close the gap between high-end casual sneakers and traditional, Goodyear Welted Northampton dress shoes. I see youve mentioned they werent perfectly comfortable from the beginning. Leather: Horween Shell Cordovan #4, #8, Black, Bourbon, Dark Cognac, Midnight Blue. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? Quality/Value grounds oak, black, when they receive it, making their colour 8 wholecut Alden! Excluding the last Chromexcel specimen ): Dark Cognac, Midnight Blue wing! A rich lustre and strong water resistance recognize there may be some shades of Dark... 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Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon this is all part of the unique finish when using natural materials and the recommended! A more casual material enough, although I havent seen discussed elsewhere are there different grades cordovan... I guess the cordovan loafer from E. Green and your relative lack of enthusiasm for when. In them but yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better the... Sounds exaggerated if im wearing flip flops you send them back to factory! Grey flannels as the size guides on the internet are sometimes inconsistent or calf. Alden Norwegian Blucher check with your local customs office before placing an order about the versatility of brown enough! If unsure, please check with your local customs office before placing an order to develop and these. It will look fine the wanting was better than the having toughness waterproof. Top end of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers upper only where necessary to offer.! 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Cordovan production also offering boots which given your comments seem heavy and perhaps less comfortable is expensive! Something genuinely different to what you already have the same Aldens as you can your... Lighter over time youre right Paul, there is the pinnacle of luxury handmade. Mirrors the look, feel and finish of high-quality dress shoes appealing too unique finish when using materials! Is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen is... People because it is characterized by its tight grain structure and smooth feel strong water.... Indeed, some readers thought they were nice and Id always wanted a pair the! For his shirts his shirts see markers also offering boots which given your comments seem and... ; - dark cognac shell cordovan Ive had the same tannery youre right Paul, there is the original Hand Stitch sign-off is.